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30May/190

52 Days of Paleo, Day 20

A simple steak and veggies. The apples were an inspired addition.

Get The Hell Out Of Dodge

Before leaving Dodge City, (or in the spirit of the old-time radio program Gunsmoke, before we ‘got the hell out of Dodge,’) we found a decent grocery store. And I’m learning that success with Paleo is all about planning a few meals ahead and hitting a decent grocer every few days.

Within the grocer, two departments are key; the produce and the meat department. I stocked up on ingredients that will enable me to stick to Paleo the rest of the week, I didn’t even follow Kenzie Swanhart’s Paleo in 28 week-two meal plan. I didn’t need to. I know what my meals are going to be; a lean protein, some veggies, maybe sweet potato, seasoned right and made fresh in our little RV kitchen. Mix in some Fruit, dark chocolate, and vegetable chips for snacks and I’m set for the next couple of days.

We left Dodge and headed for Trinidad, Colorado. There’s a campground just south, on the hilly shores of Lake Trinidad. The drive, on the two-lane highway 160, was just stunning. I never would have guessed that Western Kansas would be so beautiful. I always thought the high plains and prairies were was miles of flat nothing. But that nothing (field after field of wheat and lush, swaying prairie grasslands brushed with wildflowers, communities clustered around giant grain silos every ten miles or so) was simply breathtaking in every direction. And it served us up one of the random and unusual experience we so cherish.

There were long stretches of straight, golden-silver asphalt where we didn’t see any other cars for minutes at a time. On one section, I spotted movement on the road off in the distance. “Is something on the road up there,” I asked Keli.

“Deer,” she said as we got a little closer. I slowed the RV. We got close enough to see that they weren't deer. Instead, they were three cornfield-yellow Western Kansas Antelope. They stood in the road and watched us. I was prepared to roll to a complete stop and just marvel in their beauty and presence but a touring motorcycle overtook us and they loped off into the nearest field. They stopped a hundred feet away and watched us again.

That eye-to-eye connection with another creature is something special. I don't know what it is that passed between us, but I felt acknowledgment. They were aware of our presence. They regarded us. We occupied space in their minds. If they were reading our energy, they were feeling our admiration for them as well.

It was a beautiful and random moment and exactly the reason we travel the way we do (wander, discover, feel our way along).

We parked up at Lake Trinidad by 5 pm, walked along the ridgeline overlooking the lake, and marveled at the swallows floating and diving on the air like spitfires in world war two dogfights. We also saw a primadonna of a red-tailed hawk, floating along above everyone without a care in the work, big-dicking the whole lake.

I made steak with a sauteed veggie mix of broccoli, onions and bell peppers. I had a zucchini squash ready to go into the mix as well, but at the last moment cubed an apple and threw it in. It lifted the taste of everything on the plate. That’s what I love about Paleo; so long as you stick to the ingredients list, you can’t really go wrong mashing up any combination of veggies and protein. The recipes in Swanhart’s book are great, but the old standby of protein and veggies is so easy, you don’t have to think much (perfect for me).


Breakfast: Coffee sweetened with raw honey.

Lunch: None. Just snacking along the way.

Dinner: Chuck steak, vegetable mix with broccoli, bell peppers, onions, and apple.

Snacks: Banana, Gala apple, some Terra vegetable chips (taro, sweep potato, batata, parsnip, yucca, ruby-dipped vegetables). Oh, and some Licorice-flavored hard candies I bought in Dodge City.

29May/190

52 Days of Paleo, Day 19

Dinner yesterday. Instagram-worthy bacon and eggs.

Back on the wagon train

Today was a day to get back on the Paleo wagon. We’re still traveling in the R.V. and temptation and habit are trying to take me off course, but I was diligent. I ate very lights all day (I ate a boiled egg, a banana, and drank lots of water). When we reached our destination for the day (Dodge City, Kansas, because I wanted to see the town that inspired the Gunsmoke radio show from the ’40s and ’50s, of which I’ve listened to every episode several times), I fixed a full Paleo meal rather than fall prey to the temptation of whatever the nearest restaurant offered. I finished the night with sweet potato and eggs. It was a good day for my 52-day challenge.

Going back to our trip to Red Bird and our stop at the Coweta library to research Keli's family history, I was so excited to find a section in the Wagner County History where families had submitted short personal histories. This section made up the bulk of the book. I don't know this for a fact, but I would guess a family paid a small fee to be listed (the book was a business). The family names were not indexed or organized in any way (I assume family histories were added as they were submitted). There were several Hall families, but none that matched Keli’s history with Red Bird or any of her known family first names. Page after page, a hundred or more, I flipped through the book.

Pictures were supplied with some entries and ranged from hundred-year-old photos to something recent to the 1980 publication date. The listing spelled out lineage, accomplishments, and sometimes an anecdote or two. I was losing hope as I got closer to the end of the book. Then I found it.

Hall, Sam and Lula

Sam Hall was born to Gabe and Lydia Hall on February 29, 1879. Sam was one of nine children. The others were Mack, Annanias, Gabe, Jim, and Jerry. Sisters were Minnie, Pearl, and Rebecca.

Sam’s father was full-blood Choctaw Indian, and his mother was one-half Irish and one-half white. They were all born and raised in Navasota, Texas.

Lula Hall was born to Lewis McGinty and Nancy Louder, September 15, 1879. Lewis came to America from Africa in a ship. Nancy McGinty was of Indian heritage. She was also a slave. Nancy was born in America. Lewis and Nancy had other children; George Robert, Charlie, Jessie, David, Carrie, Peggy, Taylor, and Mary.

Sam and Lula Hall had six children: Jimmie Lee, Lillian, Synia, Hattie Lee, Booker G., and George. Sam and Lula moved to Red Bird, Oklahoma in January 1921.

Sam served on the school board during the time professor Haynes was principal.

Both Sam and Lula are deceased but their three daughters live in Red Bird. Jimmie Lee, Synia and Hattie. Lillian and Booker are deceased and George lives in Compton, California.

We immediately shared the article with Keli's family. It needed to settle in our minds for a day, but it opened a number of questions about the people Keli is connected to through time.

More on that tomorrow.


Breakfast: Black coffee sweetened with raw honey.

Lunch: Grilled chicken breast with sauteed asparagus, mushrooms, and spinach.

Dinner: Sweet potatoes and eggs.

Snacks: Licorice hard candy. Dark Chocolate. Banana.

Exercise: Nope. None. Didn’t do anything. Just drove and visited the Boot Hill Museum in Dode City, Kansas because I’m a nerdy fan of the old-time radio show Gunsmoke.

28May/190

Red Bird; one of Oklahoma’s original all-black towns

52 Days of Paleo, Day 18

I had a pretty good Paleo day (see below for details), but the mission today was to see, in person, the mythical (in our family) town of Red Bird and connect Keli to some of her family’s history.

We’re practical enough to know that connecting with one branch down one line of one of our family trees is not a definitive exploration of what it means to be who we are, but I enjoyed what I was able to contribute to the exercise.

We started at the nearest library, in a town called Coweta. I hoped to learn a little more about the town’s history, if possible. The librarian wasn’t sure what she had available when we asked for anything that might tell us about Red Bird, but she pulled a memoir written by a local rancher, a listing of all the cemeteries in the region, and a book called the Wagner County History.

A thick reference guide, the book was produced in 1980. It was full of short articles about local social groups, county and city governments, churches, schools, and the like. Each listing was comprised of at least a paragraph. Some were pages long. I assume these articles were supplied or produced by the guides’ staff. They represent a snapshot of the country at the time, and a record of the highlights of history to that point as the people who wrote it saw it.

Also included in the book were sections about towns, including several columns of text on Red Bird. The town, it turns out, was formed by black men with a vision, and a business plan.

Constructed on a section of land owned by a Creek Indian native named Fus Chata, which means Red Bird, the land was first settled at the end of the 1800s by two families; the Barbers and the Ruffins. More families joined them and a community formed. E.L. Barber founded a church and became Justice of the Peace and eventually Mayor, coalescing the community. The railroad came through the land, a post office was opened, and a development company formed (spearheaded by Barber) promoting investment in what would be one of thirty all-black towns in Oklahoma. This was all before Oklahoma became a state (the town was officially in Indian Territory).

The Red Bird Investment company promised land and opportunity to free blacks escaping the deeply-racist south. It’s sales agents, who traveled the South promoting the town, drew 600 people from sixteen different states to the grand opening (August 10, 1907).

Over its history, the town has prospered, faltered, then stabilized. Today, Red Bird is home to something like 200 people. Over the course of its history, Red Bird built and ran its own small schools and properly incorporated in 1963 to get loans to add services the town needed. There are many descendants of the towns founding (or early settler families) still living in Red Bird today.

The town as we found it is a checkerboard of disintegrating white/gray roads lined with dense forest. The streets are made up with one part sweet, small and well-maintained homes, one part abandoned and overgrown buildings, and one part mobile homes on debris-strewn lots.

We walked the local cemetery, looking for familiar family names. We spotted those of a line of my wife’s cousins, but none from her direct ancestors.

At the center of town are a couple of cinder block buildings that make up the town's infrastructure. One building is city hall, a one-room, two-window structure with steel mesh grates over the windows. The other is half post-box cluster (the post office was decommissioned some time ago and mail service is now dropped to the old post office building but delivered to individual mailboxes), and part utility office. That’s where we met Ms. Wilma Mosley. I guess her age somewhere between 75 and 90. When my wife mentioned her family history, Ms. Mosley knew of it. And had stories of Keli’s Grandmother and Keli’s Grandmother’s sisters. She even had a story about a character Keli met when she visited Red Bird a few times as a child; a precocious adult that courted her grandmother and who drank and made enough of a fool of his harmless self that two women a generation apart both had stories that connected them.


There is a metal sign mounted just in front of what I assume is an abandoned court of jailhouse (it has two rooms, one with thick concrete walls and a steel door). It told us more about the history of the town. It speaks of how freed black men came together in farming communities when fertile land became available in the Indian Territories. Towns formed around these communities. The movement for all-black towns developed as a way for these communities to self-govern, but Jim Crow laws suppressed the rights of African-Americans to vote and stifled these communities’ ability to flourish. Many, as did Red Bird, stagnated. The communities and towns formed during this era still exist, and signs like the one in Red Bird are the last reminders of this amazing history.

What I found next made the trip worthwhile.


Breakfast: Turkey slices, apple, banana, coffee sweetened with raw honey.

Lunch: Meatloaf, twice-baked potatoes, corn and a sliced muffin at a diner.

Dinner: Gluten-free cauliflower flatbread with ground beef, sweet pickle, and cheese. French fries. A homemade snicker-doodle cookie.

Snacks: None.

Exercise: None.

27May/190

52 Days of Paleo, Day 17

Grocery store salad bar, with some deli turkey thrown on top.

This isn’t going to be much of an update because it’s late and I drove 10 hours instead of sticking to my gameplan.

I started out the day with a lovely Paleo breakfast (bacon and eggs). I hit a salad bar for lunch. Still Paleo. But then it all fell apart again at night.

Our plan was to get to the OK border then make a call on where to stop. Red Bird just called to me so I pressed on. We are in Tulsa tonight. It’s 10:30 pm local time and rather than fix a meal, I opted for a banana, some gluten-free oatmeal, and a slab of dark chocolate. The hell with good intentions.

I did stock up on a couple of days worth of ingredients at that grocery store though. We’re planning to stay in Tulsa through Wednesday morning, so unless I get a bug up my ass about driving on, I’ll east plenty clean the next two days.


Breakfast: Black coffee sweetened with raw honey.

Lunch: Salad from the salad bar at a grocery store. Stuck with all the good options.

Dinner: Gluten-free oatmeal, a banana, some dark chocolate, and a beer.

Snacks: Well, dinner was basically snack food. But it’s already covered.

Exercise: Unless you count wrestling the steering of a 23-foot Class C RV with a loaded motorcycle trailer against 25 mph crosswinds exercise, none.

26May/190

52 Days of Paleo, Day 16

There was no escaping relentless wind today. I'd like to blame it for my Paleo crash, but the truth is that I just fell off the wagon.

Wind is a bit of a dick!

The wind was the story of my day today. That and a shameful (but temporary) abandonment of Paleo.

We never did make it to Roswell and the International Alien Museum and Research Center. Why? The wind is why. God-damned wind.

Interstate 25 cuts a mostly straight line right up the center of New Mexico. We started our day by pointing the RV North on I-25 and had a glorious tailwind to drive us along. To get to Roswell though, you make a hard right at San Antonio onto Highway 380 and head just slightly south of due East for 150 miles. That tailwind turned into a powerful, gusty, high-volume side wind. I had to steer into it like a pilot trying to land a super-light single-engine Cessna into a crosswind and almost got blown off the road a couple of times.

So we gave up on Roswell and headed North up Highway 54 instead, a route that took us through a procession of towns in various stages of abandonment. That led us to the Interstate gas-stop town of Santa Rosa, where the winds were so strong we were put under tornado-watch at the RV park (asked to hunker in the bathroom until the danger passed).

The whole day was like that; a battle. The wind bullied me like the big kid with the parent issues in a middle-school play yard; it taunted us and shoved us just when we got our balance for a moment, shoved us again. It was stressful and tiring and affected my resolve when challenged to find Paleo options for the day.

I still hadn’t stopped and stocked up on Paleo-friendly ingredients, so I had no options for breakfast and ate the oatmeal we stock in the camper. It’s gluten-free, but even though that’s better than the real thing, it’s still a grain and therefore not Paleo. That set a bad tone for the day. Losing the first skirmish weakens you for the battle to come.

I tried to get back on track by eating nothing for most of the rest of the day, determined to wait for a Paleo meal. But when town after town passed by with no grocery store (it’s a shame, but rural America is served it’s grocery needs by dollar stores and mini-markets), I struggled with hunger. I grabbed a banana and a Kind bar (all nuts and honey, so probably Paleo) at a gas station to try and hold on a little longer.

My last hope was the grocery store in Santa Rosa. Which (and I’m sorry Santa Rosa) had the crappiest produce section I've ever seen. Everything (I mean everything) was past it’s prime. There was nothing fresh or healthy for me to add to a chicken breast to make a meal so we ate out. I had a hamburger with no bun and French fries, trying to keep things close to Paleo, but I win no prizes for today. And after the stress of the constant wind and the tornado warning, I threw out the whole Paleo plan with a slice of chocolate pie and two canned beers as my final meal of the day.

I hope to redeem myself tomorrow. We’re not giving central New Mexico a chance to redeem itself though. As soon as I’m up and ready, I plan to aim the RV West on I-40 and not stop until I hit Oklahoma soil.

We did see one cool, interesting, and unexpected thing.

A satellite image of the lava flow that makes up the Valley of Fires in central New Mexico

Driving across the middle of New Mexico, the terrain suddenly changed from grassland to a field of rolling, cracked lava rock. We spotted a pull-in called Valley of Fires recreation area, paid our five bucks, and took the short guided walk to learn about this strange phenomenon.

I’d recommend a visit to see it in person, but the basics are that 5,000 years ago, lava vents spewed a molten river down this central New Mexico valley. As the river flowed, the outer layers cooled while the core continued to flow. When the vents stopped producing, the out layer of the lava river cracked and collapsed, leaving a forty-five-mile long lava debris field.

The rough black rock is brimming with life and a complete contrast to the rolling scrub-and-grass lands that make up (from what we observed) most of the middle of New Mexico.

This is why we travel this way; to come across things we would write off if we planned the trip ahead and read about them first. You cannot know how much of an impact a local point-of-interest like the Valley of Fires can have on your soul without seeing it yourself. If you want to be humbled by the awesomeness of the world we live on, get away from the city in any direction and keep your eyes open. If there’s something worth seeing (like the Valley of Fires), someone will have turned it into a park, or at least put up a sign to lead you to it.

Follow the signs people.


Breakfast: Black coffee sweetened with raw honey. Gluten-free oatmeal.

Lunch: Hamburger with bacon, Swiss cheese, lettuce, pickles, and ketchup, with French Fries.

Dinner: A slice of chocolate-cream pie. Two cans of beer (lager).

Snacks: A kind bar. A banana.

Exercise: None today, unless you count the 1/3 mile hike on the walking path at Valley of Fires State Park.